The presence of the KGB and the military was felt in a very real way. I was "interviewed" on a regular basis about how the trip was going. As conductor, my wife and I always had the best hotel rooms with ample bugging devices in evidence.

We were not to contact Seventh-day Adventists, and to ensure that they did not contact us our scheduled itinerary and concert venues were almost always changed. We were not allowed to sing any sacred repertoire, and prior to each concert the concert management at that particular venue would go over the program and delete those pieces which they did not want performed.

Spirituals and The Battle Hymn of the Republic were, however, allowed since they were considered American folk music. The spirituals were almost always the audience favorites. We closed each concert with the Battle Hymn. Each time, the audience would join us in singing the final chorus, "Glory, glory, hallelujah; His truth is marching on." Following the performance the people would come forward to greet us with "bear hugs," flowers, and tears streaming down their faces. Our music had crossed the language barrier and cut through the "Iron curtain."

At this time there was no competitive pricing in Russia. We were told "if you want it, buy it because it will be the same price no matter where you find the item. Also, there are no `SALES' in the USSR as you have in America." The dollar and the ruble were exchanged one to one; however, the ruble was worthless outside the Soviet Union.

In spite of the cultural shock of finding Russia to be a military giant whose people were on a living standard far below that of average Americans, I found the people to be warm and friendly and their love of the arts irresistible. Nevertheless, it was with a great sigh of relief that my choir and I crossed the border and left the stifling oppression of Communism behind. Still I left with a desire to return to this fascinating country and its people.

One of the major differences in this trip was the repertoire. We were not only allowed to sing great sacred choral literature, but were encouraged to do so. Since the majority of our performances at home involve singing sacred literature, the preparation for this trip was much easier. Not once was my repertoire list censored prior to a performance.

Distrust and fear, features that were built into the Soviet people by the system, were still greatly in evidence. The KGB was there, but the "interviews" which I had to endure during the first trip were, for the most part, abandoned. The further away we were from Moscow, however, the more evident it became that Gorbachev's reforms had not filtered far out of the Moscow region. This was particularly true in Rostov-na-Danu.

Strangely enough, however, one of our most unusual experiences came while we were in Rostov. Without going into detail, I will just say I was told by the KGB that we were to perform in the Adventist Church. We did and were treated warmly in spite of being well covered by KGB agents. The story doesn't end there however, because the Pastor's young son was in that audience. He has grown-up and during the last several years was a member of Die Meistersinger as a student at Southern Adventist University. He graduated this past spring and will return to work for his people in Russia.

My previous experience in Russia made this trip easier and more comfortable. The value of the ruble and prices for goods had remained relatively constant. A hint of freedom hung in the air, yet as we cleared customs and our train moved across the border into Poland, a loud cheer rang out from the fellows - we were free from surveillance again.

Moscow had more food and goods than other places. In Leningrad the necessities of life were scarce and adequate food hard to find. Everything was available on the "black market" but at a price far too high for the average person. Inflation was beginning and wages were not keeping up. Our guide told us they feared rioting and a return to the old ways. After all, it was the young and the intellectuals who wanted more freedom to explore new ideas and to visit new places - not the average person on the street. In fact, some were suggesting to going back to the days of Stalin. Fortunately these old radical ideas did not prevail.

The Russian love for music and the arts had not abated. The loss of free concerts and less discretionary income was of concern to concertgoers. It was evident, however, that the intrusion of American popular culture and particularly its music was springing up everywhere. Our students were thrilled at the sight of the Moscow McDonald's and not a few of them found the Baskin and Robbins 31 Flavors at a hotel across from Red Square.

As we left for home our feelings were not relief from an oppressive system, but rather uncertainty about the future of reforms which were beginning to take hold. Student concerns seemed centered on when we could eat some "American food" at Taco Bell. Needless to say, I dreamed of returning, but considered the fulfillment of the dream highly unlikely.

The transition from an economy where everyone has work and is paid by the government to an economy where one must find his/her own employment is traumatic, to say the least. Add to that the development of a school, curriculum, and qualified Seventh-day Adventist teaching staff, independent of government control. This was the monumental task undertaken by the brilliant young Russian Adventist leader Michael Kulakov.

My assignment was to teach hymnology and the history of church music in the West. This was particularly important because the teaching of music history in Russia for the past seventy years had excluded the great music of the Western Church along with hymnology. The great masterworks of choral literature based on the Bible were, in general, ignored. I was given the opportunity to travel to Zaokski in February to determine the needs of the Music School and what I would I could bring that would be most helpful.

Upon my return to the States I began collecting CD's of such well known works as Handel's Messiah and Bach's St. Matthew Passion - the list could go on and on. Books about church music, even though they were in English, were needed. (Most Russian students have a considerable acquaintance with English.) Such common items as paper; pencils, and chalk were in very short supply in Russia at that time. We loaded every spare inch of our luggage with materials that could be used.

My understanding is that most of the students in Russian conservatories were taught their subjects on an individual basis rather than in classes. Certainly this system of individual attention produced fine musicians.

Unfortunately, this system proves too expensive when dealing with an economy that is independent of total government support. One can see that if you have forty majors, which they had, and each major has a one hour private conducting lesson per week, and add to that voice, piano, and ear training, a staff of three full time teachers is overwhelmed. The staff had also o teach theory, music history, and performance classes and organizations. Impossible! We then worked together to create classes in first-year conducting, keyboard, and ear training.

Most of the teachers at the Seminary and in the Music School were in their middle twenties. They sought advice frequently. I will never forget the warmth and acceptance displayed by my musically gifted colleagues - Elena Bulgakova, Elena Godonova, and Elena Koziova.

As our time came to leave, we were completely surprised by a farewell banquet given in our honor. In spite of the scarcity of food, somewhere they found items not available in the markets and provided a sumptuous repast. The warm, giving spirit of our colleagues and friends was overwhelming. To top it all off, Elder Mikhail Kulakov, Sr. gave us what we felt was the ultimate in acceptance when he told the group, "They are one of us." We left a part of our heart at Zaokski and wondered if we would ever have the opportunity to return.

Just as during our stay in 1993, I taught my course in hymnology and Western church music and was a consultant to the Music School. But immediately upon our arrival we noticed that the environment had changed considerably. First, there were myriads of automobiles driving at high rates of speed and filling every possible space on the road. Second, the markets were full of fruits, vegetables, and consumer goods. Students at the school looked healthier and more energetic.

The downside of all this was that the ruble was now about 6,000 to one U. S. dollar. School tuition was more per year than the average family income. Many people were unable to pay for the goods that were available. The Zaokski Seminary was holding its own because the prospective ministers had their way paid by the local Conferences they were going to serve upon graduation. Numbers in the Music School were down because student sponsors were hard to find and the cost was prohibitive for many, and Conferences were not sponsoring many music students.

Students had changed too. They were still of a very high quality, but were much more independent. Class and examination questions were almost always answered individually without consultation with other students. The new freedoms extended by the government were resulting in a greater confidence and freedom of expression.

In other words the teacher might say, "Sergei, sing the alto part beginning at measure twenty-four" or "Elena, sing the bass part beginning at measure twelve." I commented that my student's in America would find that very demanding and difficult. The teachers answered nonchalantly, "It is a Russian tradition."

My colleagues and friends at Zaokski urged me to bring the group to Russia and I simply could not resist the invitation. Several people at home asked me why wanted to go back and if I weren't afraid. My answers were simple: first, the people want us to come, this will probably be the last opportunity I have to take a major tour before I retire, and the cultural experiences for my students are unparalleled. It is true that the crime rate is significantly higher than when we toured there in the 1980's, but it is no more dangerous than touring one of our large cities such as New York or Washington, D.C. In fact, I am more familiar with Moscow and feel more comfortable there than in New York City.

What a joy it was at that concert to meet Julia, a former student of mine at the Seminary, her mother and her sister. Julia joined us in singing the Tchaikovsky Lord's Prayer in Russian. The audience, as usual, was warm and friendly.

Our next two concerts were in palaces of the former aristocracy. The first of these was near the Hermitage and was sponsored by a group from the Conservatory. The second concert was presented for survivors of the 900-day siege of Leningrad during the "Great War I against Fascism," better known to us as the Second World War. This performance was on May 9, the anniversary of the end of World War Two in Europe. Both concerts were highly successful. One of the pieces which contributed to our success was our performance of When the Saints Go Marching In with Mrs. Pat Silver, retiring Band Director at SAU, providing a jazz obbligato on the clarinet. This piece of American music is well known and loved by the Russian people.

This concert was the apex of our concerts in Russia. The Hall was crowded beyond capacity and people stood in the aisles and hallways leading to the Concert Hall. During the concert we presented gifts to both the Elementary School and the Seminary. We also presented a scholarship, which paid the year's expenses for one of my former students at the Seminary.

The climax of the concert came when the Seminary Choir and Southern Singers combined for two numbers. The first, Tchaikovsky's Lord's Prayer was sung in Russian and conducted by the talented young conductor of the Seminary Choir, Elena Godonova. I had the distinct honor of conducting the combined choirs in singing Handel's Hallelujah Chorus in English. Tears flowed freely with both performers and audience as the concert came to a close. The giving spirit of the Russian people was reflected in the beautiful flowers and samovar presented to us at the conclusion of the concert.

Many in that audience had never dreamed, until very recently, that an American choir would be performing at a Seventh-day Adventist Seminary in Russia. Having worked and traveled there during a pivotal time in that country's history, I can say without a doubt that God continues to lead in the affairs of men and of nations.

Our final concert in Russia was for one of the Moscow area Seventh-day Adventist Churches which meet in a former cultural palace. Again, I had the privilege of having one of my former students, Irena, who has since graduated from the Seminary, join in singing with us.

Following our tours of Moscow, with its Kremlin and Red Square, and attendance at the Bolshoi Ballet and Moscow Circus, a number of students said they preferred Moscow to St. Petersburg because it felt more like home. I should mention that most of them had found McDonald's and Pizza Hut, which probably added to their feeling of home. Thus, it was with some sadness that we left the Moscow airport for Helsinki, Finland. After all, we had just begun to scratch the surface of Russian culture and artistic life.